d35 and super 35 axles pros and cons

...I've been all over with my super35 and stock 30!

Ya'll are funny.

jkx0778 wrote:

????? then WTF is this whole thread about??? you got rid of the d35 or just ugraded to a super 35 kit???

That's not an either or question. I got rid of the D35 by upgrading to a Super35 kit (with C-clip eliminator). The two primary problems people have with the D35 are the shafts and the spider gears. Both of these are sitting in my garage, having been replaced. This is essentially a whole new axle, aside from the tubes and housing.

Speaking of which, if anyone needs any spare D35 shafts, let me know, as I can't use them anymore. I also have the D35 LSD carrier with 3.73 ring and pinion and a D30 carrier with 3.73 ring and pinion.

You still have a D35...same housing, same ring gear = same axle, just a little bit stronger on the inside.

My bet is on your spider gears being the fist thing to go. Trussing the housing (which I definitely thing you should do) might prevent that to an extent.

Why would the new spider gears in the full-case Eaton E-Locker be the first thing to go? I'm curious, as I haven't heard anything about that before.

And I think "just a little bit stronger" is a bit of an understatement.

If I could afford it (and justify it) I'd be getting new axles like yours, too

Since the housing is prone to flex, the internals will flex along with it and since you eliminated the c-clips, the spider gears or the ring gear are what is going to bind up and potentially break. This is why I recommend you truss that sucker to make it more rigid, because even the most cautious wheeler will get into a situaton where they hop while negotiating an obstacle and hop on a D35 = BOOM.

The main point to remember here is; while your internals are much stronger now, the housing is still too weak to handle loads beyond stock parameters and if you tweak it just a little bit, the gears will no longer mesh correctly and you're going to break it.