Re-gearing Gurus Assemble

Ah hell, just do it right the first time, save and buy a Dynatrac ProRock 44!!! Muahahahahahahaha

5:13's on a 44 with 35's is all you need.

Atomic!

Bizarro wrote:

Hook-Em wrote:

Hemi_Tim aka thebigtman wrote:

IMHO, if you plan to stay with 35's, I would look for a take out D44 and use it. Sleeve and gusset at a minimum. There are several takeouts that hit the classifieds that already have a lot of the work done. You should be able to find one for about $2-2.3K

I don't think it's cost effective to build up the D30.

I hear what your saying. I'd hate to drop the $$ to re-gear the D30 only to frag it on the trail and then have to upgrade later. It makes sense to close my eyes and just do the D44 + re-gearing and not have to worry about it. That would cause a whole new dilemma though. Whether or not to go with 5.13's or go up to 5.38's.

Friggin' Jeeps, it's always something and it always involved more $$$. J.E.E.P.

ARrrrrrrg.... I hate you all!
Maybe I should just buy a smart car.

Sweet! Then we'll all have something to climb on at the next event. I like where your mind is at, Bizarro!

I wouldn't climb a smart car, it might get stuck in your treads like a rock!

HerJK-X wrote:

Ah hell, just do it right the first time, save and buy a Dynatrac ProRock 44!!! Muahahahahahahaha

When I was looking around for prices of sleeves/shafts or whatever I ran across that. I got all excited that I would just buy that for $1900 then I realized it wasn't complete and I still needed shafts and other stuff to complete it.

weeeeee weeeeee weeeeeee

Friking wierdo

Hmmm, Smart Car with a pair of 44s, 37" Boggers, and maybe...........wait for it........

a diesel, Hmmmm

Does the smart car even have a 37" wheelbase?

Bizarro wrote:

HerJK-X wrote:

Ah hell, just do it right the first time, save and buy a Dynatrac ProRock 44!!! Muahahahahahahaha

When I was looking around for prices of sleeves/shafts or whatever I ran across that. I got all excited that I would just buy that for $1900 then I realized it wasn't complete and I still needed shafts and other stuff to complete it.

I was quote right about $4500 shipped for the PR44.

For $4500 I'll bet you get the shaft with it.

Hook-Em wrote:

For $4500 I'll bet you get the shaft with it.

Yea the 1900-ish is bare but was told $4500 for gears and lockers and shafts. very nice but waaaaaay out of my price range.

Ya you're getting the shaft alright!

I don't see a damn thing different from the pro rock and what is already under my rubi. It might have different alloys on the axel shafts or something, hell a set of sleeves and superior axels and I think I'm better off. I mean correct me if I'm wrong. The pics I saw on the web site aren't even high center housings.

lonestar rubi wrote:

I don't see a damn thing different from the pro rock and what is already under my rubi. It might have different alloys on the axel shafts or something, hell a set of sleeves and superior axels and I think I'm better off. I mean correct me if I'm wrong. The pics I saw on the web site aren't even high center housings.

Look closer. For only $4500 they'll give you the axle and the "shaft". Mmmm-mmmm good. Thank you sir, may I have another. I think bizarro missed it, so this time I put it in quotation marks.

BTW. Thanks Chris for getting it.

Hook-Em wrote:

I drove 70 mph, with cruise on and O/D on, along southbound 281, for about two miles before I took this pic. I kept expecting my tach to drop to around 1750, but nothing doing. All it did was hang out at 2000. That must be why I doubted the 3.73 axle ratio in the first place. If you look at the chart Paulie posted, for tires between 34" & 35" in diameter, and 3.73 gears, I should be running between 1730 & 1781. I'm plainly running higher than that.

I dunno, maybe I'm just having an Aggie moment or something.[/color]

I put 5.38's in my Jk (auto) - @ 70mph, I'm doin about 2200rpm in OD. About 3000rpm in 3rd. Tires are LT315/r70-17 Dick Cepeck (did I miss spell that?). Tires actually measure 33¼ish". But.... I have used the FlashPak to program the ECU for the 5.38's. I had to tweak the programming of the tire size to 33" to get the speedo reading to match a GPS. So, my thinking is the chart is off a bit. Just my wooden nickles worth... MPG is 12ish ±. But had to program for and run 91 octane - non e10 - gas. Am just now expermenting with some "Marine Medics" fuel treatment - ups the octane 3 points. So, right now - I have 89 octane treated, ECU set for 91 gas. Just filled up last weekend, so, don't have any exact info yet. The "dope" is 1 oz. to 12 gallons. So far, have got 14.6ish @ 75ish with a tail wind once. Over Drive Kinda works. Slight inclines sags the speed about 4 to 5 mpg before downshifts and runs WOT up to speed. Forget OD with a trailer.

lonestar rubi wrote:

I don't see a damn thing different from the pro rock and what is already under my rubi. It might have different alloys on the axel shafts or something, hell a set of sleeves and superior axels and I think I'm better off. I mean correct me if I'm wrong. The pics I saw on the web site aren't even high center housings.

If I had the $$, I would have pulled the trigger on it going from a D30 to a D44. but if you already have the 44, add a truss, gussets, & sleeves.

- HD inner C's (got my C-Gussets from teraflex ~$45.00 shipped)
- 3" OD x 1/2" tubes (who needs sleeves now? I made my own truss from 1/4" plate i got for free)
- Shaved diff for ground clearance (alleged)
- HD brackets (I got some poly perf LCA brackets. 1/4" ~ $55.00 shipped & made my own Johnny Joint UCA mt for ~$45)
- ARB 35 spline Locker
- 35 Spline RCV axle shafts

The last two are what made it hard for me not to go this route. They are nearly half the price of the complete axle.

jkx0778 wrote:

lonestar rubi wrote:

I don't see a damn thing different from the pro rock and what is already under my rubi. It might have different alloys on the axel shafts or something, hell a set of sleeves and superior axels and I think I'm better off. I mean correct me if I'm wrong. The pics I saw on the web site aren't even high center housings.

If I had the $$, I would have pulled the trigger on it going from a D30 to a D44. but if you already have the 44, add a truss, gussets, & sleeves.

- HD inner C's (got my C-Gussets from teraflex ~$45.00 shipped)
- 3" OD x 1/2" tubes (who needs sleeves now? I made my own truss from 1/4" plate i got for free)

- Shaved diff for ground clearance (alleged)
- HD brackets (I got some poly perf LCA brackets. 1/4" ~ $55.00 shipped & made my own Johnny Joint UCA mt for ~$45)
- ARB 35 spline Locker
- 35 Spline RCV axle shafts

The last two are what made it hard for me not to go this route. They are nearly half the price of the complete axle.

That's what I'm talking about!!!!!

The RCVs are the ticket!

All of this makes me want to ask one question. What pants are all you guys wearing?

Hook-Em wrote:

All of this makes me want to ask one question. What pants are all you guys wearing?

Hook-Em wrote:

All of this makes me want to ask one question. What pants are all you guys wearing?

Uh, right now some black Dockers wrinkle free pleated slacks... why?




" Do I make you horny, baby. Do I ?"




I'm wearing the, "I sold 2 rifles, a bunch of ammo, and some crap out of my garage to gets these parts so they didn't come out of our budget and you can't get mad about that" pants !!

OK, I can't let you guys hang in suspense any longer.

I figured I had to get me whatever pants you guys were wearing because your pockets go WAY deeper than any pants I have.

I mean, $4500 to replace a front axle that ain't broken, I just can't justify doing it. Shoot, I don't even think I can justify $2000 for a takeoff. Besides I think we all know that replacing the front axle is only the beginning. There's always something else too, which means it's more than $4500, or $2000, or whatever. Just can't do it.

Hook-Em wrote:

OK, I can't let you guys hang in suspense any longer.

I figured I had to get me whatever pants you guys were wearing because your pockets go WAY deeper than any pants I have.

I mean, $4500 to replace a front axle that ain't broken, I just can't justify doing it. Shoot, I don't even think I can justify $2000 for a takeoff. Besides I think we all know that replacing the front axle is only the beginning. There's always something else too, which means it's more than $4500, or $2000, or whatever. Just can't do it.

Most of us didn't go to UT, so we don't have those high college tuition loans to pay back.