Re-gearing Gurus Assemble

Side job pants, by the way does anybody need some plumbing work done? I need to re-gear and a stubby stinger!.... Tim I noticed you have a water softener loop and no water softener call me man I can make you a good deal man!

Sorry Dave I don't know anybody that needs engineering on the side!

Funny you should mention Tim and engineering in the same post. Recall Tim's Aeroforce gauge panel? Also recall our installing my new CB (thx again) up in that same area in my rig. Well, I started reverse-engineering the bezel. I'm gonna explore a modular molded bezel capable of securing various items such as CB's, gauges, phones, etc. If I do it right, the possibilities are virtually endless.

Anybody interested? If so, I'll start a separate thread with cocnepts.

Hook-Em wrote:

Anybody interested? If so, I'll start a separate thread with cocnepts.

I do have an intrest See if Jeep will let you re engineer their POS 3.8

You could make A LOT of money just right off the forum!

No, no, no, you slacknut! In the console bezel.

what kind of wrench do you use on a slacknut?

A monkey wrench!

I usually use my hand!

DEEP pockets... I only wish

I didn't get the PR44. I wish I could have. What I wrote was just to break down the price a little. Here's what I did:


$1300.00 on a used rubi axle w/out shafts (shipped)
$ 50.00 a set of used but almost new rubi axle shafts
$ 55.00 Poly LCA mounts
$ 43.00 Currie Johnny Joint
$ 100.00 used set of Rubi D44 gears (shipped)
$ 100.00 install kit for gears
$ 250.00 regear at Off-Road Ready in Helotes
$ 150.00 New Ball Joints (all 4)
$ 60.00 welding done by Off-Road Ready
$ 45.00 Tera Flex C-Gussets (shipped)
FREE 1/4" steel to make UCA J-Joint mount & truss
--------------------------------------------------------------
$2,153.00 into a front rubi D44

Granted that is a huge chunk of $$. But like I said, I sold 2 rifles and my old D30 that more than covered that expense. I prolly could have gone with the PR44. But that would have taken all my cash and i'd have had to dip into my household funds and maybe a little on a credit card. I could have saved about $353 by skipping the LCA mounts, J-joint UCA mount, ball joints, C-Gussets and welding everything myself (my cousin actually, but his welder was down for about 3 wks). But, I figured it'd be easier and I'd save in the long run by getting it all done BEFORE installing the axle in my jeep.

This is why I had a hard time deciding between the PR44 and building this axle. Add the cost of the 35 spline ARB and RCVs and it puts the built axle to about $4100.00. Very, very close to the PR44. But I went with building my own axle because it was less than half the cost and I can upgrade later to the ARB & RCVs when $$ permits. I also plan on getting the Poly ball joints later on too.

Another thing to consider is, patience. I started aquiring the parts for about 4 months before I every bought the axle. Then I waited 3 months for the right deal on a used axle to come up. I had the axle sitting in the garage for about 2 months to save up $$ and sell the D30. Then took about a month to fab up the gussets and UCA mount and about a month to get all the work done. Then waited 2 weeks to get it installed. So, it took almost a year to get the D44 under my jeep.

You can build your D30 on the cheap too. You might be able to save $$ on the gear install, welding, and build your own truss. If you have a friend with a plasma cutter, you can get some 3/8" thick steel and cut yourself some C-gussets too.

Good luck on your build. If you have questions, feel free to ask me or anyone on here for help /advice.

hey dave, what type of engineer again? you got CAD skills and software? I'm thinking you & i could trade parts (or $$) for CAD work. very very simple CAD work, but I just don't have the time to learn Free CAD right now.

I'm a mechanical engineer. I definitely have CAD skills. Let me know what you need. I know you've got some of those fancy, deep-pocketed pants so I'm very interested. Lol

Dave, after the new year, you & me should get together and go over your plans for your jeep. How much wheeling, type of wheeling, etc. I'm sure we could beef up that d30 of yours to last.

As I stated in PJ's thread, the D30 will last and is NOT weak. Could it be better? yes. Can you beef it up? sure can. Is it worth it? <--- THIS is the subject of debate. I think it is depending on how YOU drive.

I broke my D30. But I'd like to think my driving skills have improved since then and that I drive with more finesse than skinny pedal now adays. But when I broke my D30, I also busted 2 shafts on my D44, so it wasnt the D30's fault.

OK, so here is an update on my re-gearing consideration. Recall my dismay at just how gutless my little Hook-em became after my lift and tires. Well a couple weeks ago I ordered and received a Superchip Flashpaq. My only regret thus far is not getting that thing earlier. I tuned it with the mileage xs tune and then re-calibrated the speedometer to my new tire size. The difference is quite simply astonishing. I know there are far more advanced tunes I could run with it, but for my DD usage this one is all I need. I'll experiment with it over the next few months to find the best balance between performance and economy. Now I'll be the first to concede that my rig is no top-fuel dragster with the flashpaq tuning, but it makes quite a difference. I'm running my first full tank now, but I like that I'm running mid-15's instead of mid-12's for the economy. I also like that I can pass the little blue-haired grannies in their Buick Centuries.

As for the re-gearing, my rig is a 2009, and I believe it has the lifetime power-train warranty. If that is the case, for the immediate future anyway, I think I'm going to hold off on re-gearing. If I fail a power-train component and Chrysler "proves" that my mods resulted in the failure, then I will reevaluate the situation. For now though, I'm as pleased as punch with the performance gains provided by the flashpaq.

Cheers!

Hook-Em wrote:

but I like that I'm running mid-15's instead of mid-12's

I often wonder if the difference is in the fixing of the speedo... since the speedo's are off by a LOT with even my 33s (at 65, my GPS shows me at 75), I doubt the acuracy of my 12.5 mpg. Then I wonder - is it higher or LOWER!

Cool deal.

Not having the speedo calibrated will make your fuel economy seem worse. With larger tires you are actually traveling further than the speedo thinks you are so it looks like you're mileage is worse. Now, as far as that worthless estimated mileage calculator that is never right anyway (or at least always 1.5 mpg otimistic)...your guess is as good as mine. I would assume it is affected the same way.

matinau wrote:

I often wonder if the difference is in the fixing of the speedo... since the speedo's are off by a LOT with even my 33s (at 65, my GPS shows me at 75), I doubt the acuracy of my 12.5 mpg. Then I wonder - is it higher or LOWER!