Driveshaft / Control Arms

Help!!

I have alot of vibration and probably need to get my driveshaft replaced ASAP, did not have good luck with driveshafts unlimited today. Still not sure if it is front or rear

Suggestions please, I hear Tattons has some at a good price, do I need to do control arms now too?

Cam bolts?

Well that explains why I saw you W.W. White today! Vibration how? When?

If the vibration is coming through the body of the jeep it is the driveshafts.

If it is coming through the front axle/steering wheel it is the death wobble. adjust your toe in and check your trackbar.

If it is driveshafts it is probably the rear. You don't have that much lift and the front is the same as a 4 door. The rear driveshaft is shorter on a 2 door and more prone to vibrations because of the steeper angles.

You can probably correct the rear with adjustable control arms. ( I would stay away from cam bolts.)

If you adjust the castor on the front with control arms you make the pinion angle worse. for the front you need a drive shaft with u joints or rotate the knuckles which is a major job.

Check wheel weights make sure you didn't lose one

Here are the one driveshafts I'm looking at (I'm gonna get a front DS first, boot bit the dust).

Coast Drivelines $475.00+ shipping front / $510.00+shipping rear

I like these because: 1- They are 1310/1350 in the front & 1350s in the rear and 2 - they are bolt in replacements. You can carry your stock DS as trail spares.

http://www.coastdriveline.com/NEW_JK.htm


Tatton's $395.00 shipped

1310's and come with pinion yokes for the t-case and pinion. Only downside I see not having a trail spare unless you have another custom DS. But for the price... kinda hard not to like them. Especially since a quick search of forums has 99% positive reviews.

http://jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45196

Renee, I would also try the links below for adjustable upper-rear control arms:
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RC-CAC2&Category_Code=ARMS

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk_xflex-control-arms.html

I wonder if a vendor on here can get a better deal on the Coast front and/or rear DS ???????????????????????[

Thanks Richard, Jon and everyone for all the help!!

Guess I will go with Tatton's or a Tom Woods ($449.00), I need to give them a call on Monday.

One last question:

Tom woods web-site asks for a measurement, I can do that but do they make it longer for those with lifts?

Control arms are just gonna have to wait:(

lonestar rubi wrote:

Well that explains why I saw you W.W. White today! Vibration how? When?

Major vibrations on slower speeds, its a little better at higher speeds pretty sure its driveshaft.

Boot is gone and its throwing grease on my axle

Check with Thrash drive shaft on west ave. I bet he can make a nice set up.

I just ordered a tom woods front shaft, should be in any day. I have heard nothing but good things about them. Other than that, won't know until I try it.

Thrash did front and rear on the K5 recently. Was about $600, if I recall. One could search this forum for the thread.... I thought it was pricey, but was a completely new custom front and rear with new ujoints.

I got one ordered from Tatton's, I need to get it on this weekend if possible.

Do i hear a mini install party?

Let me know as soon as you get it. I'll get it installed that night.

You guys are awesome!! I'll let everyone know when it gets here

who else out there is looking for a driveshaft? front or rear?

like I said before, I am looking around for a front DS and am really looking at the coast 1350 driveshafts due to the strength and the flange that allows you to throw on a stock DS in a pinch.

I was thinking that if others were ready to replace their DS if we put together an order, it might give us a little better pricing.

I have a front DS to install as well. Sititng in my garage, just don't have the tools to put it on.

Renee, I can make you a good deal on a full set of adj. control arms in a few weeks.

Did I hear install party?

terrahawk wrote:

Renee, I can make you a good deal on a full set of adj. control arms in a few weeks.

Cool, let me know how much

rlogan wrote:

Did I hear install party?

Yes gotta get it on this weekend, next weekend is Canyons

How bout Sunday, cause I'll be fishing Saturday.

Dutchboy101 wrote:

I have a front DS to install as well. Sititng in my garage, just don't have the tools to put it on.

Are the jeep DS that much more than my blazer? It took, umm, two wrenches to do both the front and rear DS on the blazer.... I was furious that I took the jeep in and paid them $$ to do it, once I found out how bloody easy it was by myself on the blazer.

I am open Sat or Sunday after church either works for me, I think Sascha needs his installed too, and Jon has opened up his house for us. Yall let me know what day works better. Thanks

I cancelled my fishing trip so what ever works for me.

matinau wrote:

Dutchboy101 wrote:

I have a front DS to install as well. Sititng in my garage, just don't have the tools to put it on.

Are the jeep DS that much more than my blazer? It took, umm, two wrenches to do both the front and rear DS on the blazer.... I was furious that I took the jeep in and paid them $$ to do it, once I found out how bloody easy it was by myself on the blazer.

the answer is... not really. just time consuming. The JKs have a flanges on both ends of the rear Rzeppa style DS in the rear. So there is a flange on the diff and tcase in the rear. These have to be changed out to yokes for the Tatton's DS. That is the hard part. You have to be careful with the torque specs on the pinion. IIRC max torque should be 180 lb/ft as the crush sleeve in the diff should be around 200 lb/ft (check the instructions though. I might be a off in my #s). Once the yokes are on, it should be easy from there. Just 4 u-botls.

The front is a little easier since there is only a flange on the tcase end and a standard u-bolt on the diff.

BUT once you change out to a double cardan joint, the diff should be at the same angle as the DS. I did not have the correct rear degree wedges in my 84 blazer and I kept busting ujoints... sucks when your on the hwy and hear a loud pop and then lots of crazy loud banging as the DS whips around until it destroys itself completely The rear is easy with adj control arms. The front is trickier because now you have to contend with steering geometry. Rotating the pinion up to correct the DS angle lessens the caster and JKs like plenty of positive caster. IIRC many run about 6* of positive caster for the "best" steering feel.

just my $0.02